Posts Tagged ‘Chinese Dim Sum’

Oh my, America’s Test Kitchen does Shu Mai!

February 15, 2012

I am beginning to think ATK really does not think highly of Chinese food. Sure many of today’s Chinese cooks do a lot of short cuts and use the ingredients he listed but I would hope there was some more investigation and explanation before they claim why their approach was better.

Shu Mai, is not a dim sum I normally order, since like Mr. Kimball eludes to, that it was once considered an after thought. I have heard that it was once made from the kitchen’s cutting board scrapings, but I do not believe this is the case in the USA. The chicken bullion powder and MSG are shortcuts to increase the flavor of meats sold in the US. Unlike pork in Asia, most chiefs feels that the meats in the USA lacks the natural flavor, which I have also seen echoed in some food documentaries. Hence we see a call for the slow food movement and eat local. The ad I believe that illustrates this message the best was the Chipotle ad featured during the 2012 Grammys (featuring Willy Nelson singing “The Scientist” by ColdPlay).

Like making hamburgers, we also try to utilize all the parts of the pig as possible. And not all parts are equal. Some are really fat and some are really lean. Hence we grind the lean parts with the fat parts but I never heard of mixing lard directly sine it is harder to keep this in the meat after cooking.

Although I have seen some of the ingredients such as soy sauce and ginger added to ground meats, I do not believe it is done in a restaurant setting. Depending on the restaurant’s burn rate those ingredients can affect the meats texture and flavor. If you had a Chinese (Canton) styles poached chicken with the ginger onion dip, you will know that storing the dip with chicken will change its texture overnight . In a sense, it is continuing to breakdown the cooked meat. Soy sauce will cause the meat to taste a little sour, if it is mixed and cooked improperly. So I do not really agree with their assessment.

Although they mention a lot of ingredients that add flavor and texture, they also missed a lot of characteristics of a good Shu Mai. Like good Asian fish or meat balls, there is a texture and mouth feel that the meat should have which, is developed similar to kneading bread. Another questionable decision or recommendation they gave was to use spring roll wrappers for the skin. The reason is that the spring roll wrappers are usually thicker and cooked. Normally we use wonton wrappers. And why not steam with strips of lettuce instead of paper? Although there are many alternatives to the bamboo steamer, it is really preferred. Bamboo being natural, is composed of many fibers which prevents the condensation from falling back on the product.

I am sure their Shu Mai might be tasty and is a good alternative to many home cooks but please have some humility and say so like the basil chicken segment and call it like it is, an alternative.